Ornament News
Museums and Galleries 35.3

THE HEARD MUSEUM’s main location in Phoenix presents Native American Bolo Ties: Vintage and Contemporary, on display through September 3. The distinctive tie originated in the Southwest, and its popularity quickly spread throughout the West and in many other parts of the country. The distinguishing necktie has been made even more distinctive by contemporary American Indian artists in Arizona. The bolo ties included in Native American Bolo Ties come from the Heard’s permanent collection of more than one hundred seventy bolo ties and the promised gift of Chicago collector Norman L. Sandfield. His collection consists of more than one thousand bolo ties, scarf slides and ephemera, many of which will be on display. The exhibition is curated by Diana Pardue of the Heard Museum. Shown are a turquoise-inlaid silver bolo tie, a portrait bolo tie by Navajo artist Herman Vandever, a Western-dancers bolo tie by Zuni artist Jeanette Dawa, a silver bolo tie by Zuni artist Victor Coochwytewa, a commercially manufactured fitting, a boy wearing a Roy Rogers shirt and thunderbird-design bolo tie, Roy Rogers with Victor Cedarstaff bolo tie and Dale Evans, and a Great Plains Indian wearing a scarf slide. 2301 North Central Avenue, Phoenix, Arizona 85004; 602.252.8848;



THE PHOENIX ART MUSEUM displays The Sea, an exhibit at the Ellman Fashion Design Gallery through July 15. This exhibition explores the far-reaching influence of the romance of the sea on fashion design. Featuring ensembles from the nineteenth century to the current collections, the designs included are drawn from the Museum’s extensive permanent collection, private collections and international fashion houses including Emilio Pucci, Emanuel Ungaro and Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. 1625 North Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85004; 602.257.1222;


THE FOWLER MUSEUM AT THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, LOS ANGELES presents Second Skins: Painted Barkcloth from New Guinea and Central Africa, through August 26. The exhibit juxtaposes two separate traditions of fabricating vibrantly graphic clothing from the inner bark of trees: one shared by diverse peoples who live in and around the Ituri rainforest in the Democratic Republic of the Congo and the other produced by the Ömie of Papua New Guinea in the South Pacific. Focusing on twentieth century and contemporary iterations of possibly ancient traditions, the exhibition will explore barkcloth’s contemporary “migration” from the body to the gallery wall, highlighting the genre’s artistic inventiveness and the differing ways the two traditions have interacted with the international art market. W. Sunset Blvd. and Westwood Pl., Los Angeles, CA 90077; 310.825.4361;


THE LEGION OF HONOR features a fashion-related art exhibition in The Cult of Beauty: The Victorian Avant-Garde, 1860 – 1900, showing through June 17. The exhibit explores the unconventional creativity of the British Aesthetic Movement, tracing its evolution from a small circle of progressive artists and poets, through the achievements of innovative painters and architects, to its broad impact on fashion and the middle-class home. The exhibition debuted at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and is currently on view at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris. The Legion of Honor is the exclusive United States venue. Lincoln Park, 34th Ave. and Clement St., San Francisco, CA 94121; 415.750.3600;


SILVER BLUE AND GOLD GALLERY hosts Ring 4 Spring through May 20. With homage and a little twist to the tradition of “a ring by spring,” the exhibition offers a unique collection of handfabricated wedding, engagement and just-for-fun rings by eighteen studio jewelers from across the U.S. The materials featured range from traditional yellow gold and diamonds to innovative uses of palladium, titanium and damascus stainless steel. 1492 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, CA 92651; 949.715.3000.


TABOO STUDIO presents Elements of Invention, an exhibition of new jewelry from May 11 to June 22. The exhibit features the work of Joanna Gollberg, recently featured in Ornament. Also on display is the work of Jessica Calderwood, local jewelry instructor Lisa Medlen, Nancy Blair, Sophie Hughes, Ken Loeber and Dona Look, Carol Webb, and Liaung Chung Yen. 1615 ½ West Lewis St., San Diego, CA 92103; 619.692.0099.


THE DENVER ART MUSEUM hosts two exhibitions on personal adornment. Read My Pins: The Madeleine Albright Collection, is on display through June 17. Drawn from the personal collection of former U.S. Secretary of State Madeleine Albright, this exhibition features more than two hundred pins, many of which Secretary Albright wore to communicate a message or a mood during her diplomatic tenure. Also showing is Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective, showing through July 8. A sweeping retrospective of the designer’s forty years of creativity, Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective features a stunning selection of two hundred haute couture garments along with numerous photographs, drawings and films that illustrate the development of Saint Laurent’s style and the historical foundations of his work. 100 W. 14th Ave. Pkwy., Denver, CO 80204; 720.865.5000;


THE DURANGO ARTS CENTER presents Textiles Today: Redefining the Medium, a national invitational contemporary textile exhibition showing through June 2. Among the artists featured are Liz Axford, Susan Brandeis, Amy Clark, Jane Dunnewold, Catharine Ellis, Leesa Zarinelli Gawlik, Wendy Huhn, Michael James, Jorie Johnson, Lisa Klakulak, Carol LeBaron, Tom Lundberg, Mark Newport, Vita Plume, Rowland Ricketts, Sally Sellers, Carol Shinn, Clare Verstegen, and Bhakti Ziek. 802 East 2nd Ave., Durango, CO 81301; 970.259.2606;


GALLERY FIVE brings in new work for the new year, with Mina Norton presenting several of her chenille jackets. Earrings and necklaces of appealing spiral motifs by Joann Hendelman are also on sale, as well as Valery Guignon’s silk ponchos. The gallery will also be presenting the work of Patricia McCleery through May 31. Her work, often incorporating fossilized ivory, is reminiscent of Inuit carvings, and summons up a primal and tribal connection. Also featured in May is the work of Brenna Busse and Kay Chapman. 140 Bridge Rd., Tequesta, FL 33469; 561.747.5555.


THE HEADLEY-WHITNEY MUSEUM exhibits The Cutting Edge II: Gem and Jewelry Invitational through July 8. This exhibition features the beautiful creations of over twenty contemporary jewelers and gem carvers. This is gems and minerals shown at their finest in necklaces, brooches, rings, eyewear, and everyday objects like pens and spoons. 4435 Old Frankfort Pike, Lexington, KY 40510; 859.255.6653;



THE BIRMINGHAM MUSEUM OF ART hosts The Look of Love: Eye Miniatures from the Skier Collection through June 10. Exquisite in craftsmanship, unique in detail and few in number, lover’s eye miniatures are small-scale portraits of individual eyes set into various forms of jewelry from late eighteenth- and early nineteenth-century England. Featuring an impressive ninety-eight pieces, the collection is considered to be the largest of its kind, with only one thousand lover’s eye miniatures thought to be in existence worldwide. 2000 Rev. Abraham Woods, Jr. Blvd., Birmingham, AL 35203; 205.254.2565;



THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON presents Beauty as Duty: Textiles and the Home Front in WWII Britain, through May 28. This exhibition looks at ways that textiles were put into service on Britain’s home front in the 1940s. Mass-produced “utility” clothes had to conform to strict government regulations, yet managed to be fashionable. Colorful scarves printed with motifs relating to British life during and after the war—many by the high-end London textile firm Jacqmar—were a practical way to spruce up a look. Avenue of the Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., Boston, MA 02115;


THE GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN displays Character in Costume: A Jack Edwards Retrospective, through May 20. This exhibition will feature dozens of refined costume sketches, photographs, press clippings, playbills, reviews, and thirty actual costumes designed by Edwards. In a diverse fifty-year career that included New York City, Santa Fe, Hollywood, and Minneapolis, Edwards (a master costume designer) designed memorable costumes for solo performers, opera, Broadway plays, television, Minneapolis’s Guthrie Theatre, Hollidazzle Parade, and Dayton’s holiday events. In the hands of a designer such as Edwards, a performer’s stage identity is made visible through costume, hair and accessories, so that the character he or she portrays is understood by the audience. 241 McNeal Hall, 1985 Buford Ave., Saint Paul, MN 55108; 612.624.7434;



THE MUSEUM AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY, NEW YORK hosts Great Designers: Part One through May 8. More than fifty garments and accessories are featured by designers from Alaïa to Zoran, including work by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, Christian Dior and Miuccia Prada. Also presented are a number of historically and artistically significant objects that are seldom on view, such as Mariano Fortuny’s embossed velvet dress. Also featured are newer acquisitions by designers such as Miuccia Prada, whose peek-a-boo lace dress evokes a quirky style, and Thierry Mugler, whose metallic bustier and fishtail skirt epitomizes the sexuality and theatricality for which the designer became famous in the 1980s. Seventh Avenue at 27th Street, New York, New York 10001; 212.217.4558;


KENT STATE UNIVERSITY MUSEUM displays On the Home Front: Civil War Fashions and Domestic Life, through August 26. On the Home Front focuses on the daily life and experiences of the American civilian population during the Civil War and in the years immediately following. The pieces on exhibit, including women’s and children’s costumes, supplemented with related photographs, decorative arts and women’s magazines, are organized thematically. Far from being a simple trivial diversion during such a critical period, fashion provides a unique window into the lived experience of Americans during the Civil War. East Main St. and South Lincoln St., Kent, OH 44242; 330.672.3450;


THE PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART presents Craft Spoken Here, an exhibition on view from May 5 through August 12. Drawn mainly from the Museum’s rich holdings, Craft Spoken Here celebrates the artform of craft with about fifty objects ranging from large sculptural works to small pieces of jewelry that represent a diversity of cultures. The Museum’s objects are accompanied by works borrowed from private collections and artists, all brought together to reinforce the importance of craft to the Museum’s mission. Through these objects, a larger discussion about how museums, collectors, artists, and critics approach and understand craft and how the universal language of craft is evolving. 26th Street and Benjamin Franklin Pkwy, Philadelphia, PA 19130; 215.763.8100;



THE NATIONAL ORNAMENTAL METAL MUSEUM shows Alchemy through June 3. Alchemy, a term that refers to a seemingly magical power of transmutation as well as the ancient chemical philosophy of turning base metal into gold or silver, can apply to enamel as it is magically transformed by heat. This is the name for the thirteenth Biennial International Juried Enamel Exhibition and ninth International Juried Student Enamel Exhibition, sponsored by The Enamelist Society. The exhibit highlights the best in contemporary enamels produced in the last two years. The International Juried Exhibition showcases the work of enamelists that demonstrate aesthetic and technical expertise. 374 Metal Museum Dr., Memphis, TN 38106; 901.774.6380;


THE POTOMAC FIBER ARTS GALLERY exhibits Techno Fiber, featuring jewelry, sculpture, clothing, and more from May 22 to June 17. In this show, the artists of the Potomac Fiber Arts Gallery respond to the theme of “how high-tech can we go?” Every month, the gallery displays a new show, which features the work of the gallery’s artists. 105 North Union St., Studio 18, Alexandria, VI 22314; 703.548.0935.


THE TEXTILE MUSEUM OF WASHINGTON, D.C. hosts Woven Treasures of Japan’s Tawaraya Workshop through August 12. Japan has a remarkably refined textile tradition, and for centuries the Japanese have admired the silks produced in the Nishijin neighborhood of Kyoto as the epitome of beauty and opulence. Woven Treasures will feature some of the sumptuous pieces created in one of Nishijin’s oldest and most illustrious workshops: Tawaraya.With a history stretching back more than five hundred years, the Tawaraya workshop is renowned for supplying the Japanese Imperial Household with yusoku orimono—fine silks in patterns, weaves and color combinations traditionally reserved for the garments and furnishings of the aristocracy, including the Emperor. 2320 South St., NW, Washington, D.C. 20008; 202.667.0441;



THE MUSEUM OF ETHNOLOGY IN VIENNA presents Naga People: Jewelry and Ashes, through June 18. Long feared by their neighbors as notorious head-hunters, the Naga live in the mountainous northeast of India and Myanmar. They recorded the stories of their life and their world not in ink on paper but in a complex system of textile patterns, jewelry designs and wood carvings. Naga People features the jewelry and ornaments of this culture, accompanied by videos of Nagas being interviewed or singing. Neue Burg, Heldenplatz, 1010 Wien, Vienna;


THE SCHMUCK MUSEUM IN PFORZHEIM hosts Serpentina: The Snake in Jewellery Around the World, showing through February 26, 2012. Sin and temptation, cunning and slyness, death and disaster on the one hand as well as eternity and renewal, protection and healing power on the other: the symbolic meanings of the snake are many and quite varied. The creature has fascinated humans at all times and in all cultures and inspired the creation of exquisite works of art—including pieces of jewelry. Compiling a variety of displays illustrating the theme, the exhibition covers the entire spectrum of snakes in jewelry, with approximately one hundred twenty pieces from various epochs and countries in Europe, Africa, Asia, and America. Jahnstrasse 42, Pforzheim d-75173, Germany; 49.0.7231.39.21.26;



THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM hosts Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950, showing from May 19 through January 6, 2013. The exhibit will be the first exhibition in the newly renovated Fashion Galleries and will feature beautiful ballgowns, red carpet evening gowns and catwalk showstoppers. There is a strong British design tradition of creating sumptuous ballgowns, one that has been upheld in the late twentieth and twenty-first centuries through the work of designers such as Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. The exhibition will cover more than sixty years of a tradition that continues to flourish. Cromwell Rd., London SW7 2RL, Great Britain; 0.20.7942.2000;


THE WHITWORTH ART GALLERY presents the exhibition COTTON: Global Threads, through May 13. Themes tackled by the exhibition include Trade Goods, examining India’s extensive global trade networks in the centuries before cotton production shifted to Western Europe; Technological Revolution, which looks at the impact of spinning and weaving technology on the development of the cotton industry in Lancashire; and Moral Fibre, a provocative look at cotton’s dirty secrets and its human and environmental impact. The installations by contemporary artists Yinka Shonibare, Liz Rideal, Lubaina Himid, Anne Wilson, Abdoulaye Konaté, Aboubakar Fofana, and Grace Ndiritu engage with these themes in different ways. Oxford Rd., Manchester M15 6ER, Great Britain; 0.16.1275.7450.


THE SWEDISH NATIONAL MUSEUM hosts Slow Art, an exhibition showing from May 10 through January 20, 2013. The exhibit celebrates a contemporary movement in fine craft where technique, materials and the work process are considered especially important. Some thirty silver, textile, glass, and ceramic objects, all of them unique and crafted with care, will be on display. Inherent in the slow process of creation is respect for the audience­—the kind of respect that is often lacking in today’s modern society, dominated by mass production and mass consumption. Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2, Stockholm 111 48, Sweden; 46 8-5195 4410;




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