Ornament News
Museums and Galleries 37.4
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ARIZONA
THE PHOENIX ART MUSEUM hosts “Fashioned in America” from October 11 through March 15, 2015. This exhibit examines how economics, ecology and labor ethics are driving a revival of fashion designs made in the United States. Featuring more than forty ensembles and accessories, the installation highlights work by contemporary designers such as Ralph Rucci, Anna Sui, Nanette Lepore, and J. Mendel whose vision and talent are invigorating the revival of U.S. clothing manufacturing. 1625 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85004; 602.257.1880; www.phxart.org.
CALIFORNIA
THE MUSEUM AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF DESIGN AND MERCHANDISING hosts “Bound to Impress: Corsets from The Helen Larson Historic Fashion Collection” through November 1. For centuries, corsets contorted the female figure into the reigning ideal. This exhibit highlights these unnatural fashions between the 1760s and the 1820s. Whether conically shaped with rigid backs and flattened breasts or rounded hourglasses with sloped shoulders and cinched waistlines, garment silhouettes followed the dictates of these concealed undergarments. This exhibition covers sixty years—from the Ancien Régime, through the French Revolution, during the age of Napoléon, to the era of British Romanticism. 919 South Grand Ave., Suite 250, Los Angeles, CA 90015; 213.623.5821; fidmmuseum.org.
THE FOWLER MUSEUM AT THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, LOS ANGELES features “Yards of Style, African-Print Cloths of Ghana” through December 14. The larger markets in West Africa offer everything from foodstuffs to scrap metal to used clothing—and they also boast hundreds of stalls filled with printed cloth. With some vendors selling just a few cloths and others featuring stacks of six- and twelve-yard panels, these markets offer something for everyone. Ubiquitous throughout urban and rural Africa as garments and headwraps, African-print cloths are also popping up on fashion show runways and in retail fashion catalogs in the United States and Europe. African market vendors may carry cloths made in Holland, Ghana and other West African nations, as well as China, assuring a wide choice of prices and styles that cater to their diverse customer base. 308 Charles E Young Dr. N., Los Angeles, CA 90024; 310.825.4361; www.fowler.ucla.edu.
COLORADO
COLORADO THE DENVER ART MUSEUM presents “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century” from November 16 through March 15, 2015. Organized by the museum and curated by Margaret Young-Sánchez, Frederick and Jan Mayer, the exhibition will feature an assortment of jewelry, timepieces and precious objects produced between 1900 and 1975. The exhibition highlights Cartier’s rise to preeminence in the midst of historical events as it transformed itself into one of the world’s most prestigious names in jewelry, timepieces and objects. A special section focused on masculine items will offer a rare look at the pieces Cartier crafted especially for men, including the modern wristwatch. 100 W. 14th Avenue Pkwy., Denver, CO 80204; 720.865.5000; www.denverartmuseum.com.
FLORIDA
GALLERY FIVE ushers in autumn with new shirts by Kay Chapman. Using light silks which she hand-dyes, Chapman’s pieces are easy-to-wear, comfortable and stylish. Keith Lewis returns with his similarly light jewelry, featuring silver and vermeil earrings in abstract modernist style. Finally, Penelope Weinstein’s found object jewelry line creates colorful and wonderfully constructed collages of usual objects put together in unconventional combinations. 140 Bridge Rd., Tequesta, FL 33469; 561.747.5555; www.gallery5.com.
MASSACHUSETTS
THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON hosts “Hollywood Glamour: Fashion and Jewelry from the Silver Screen” through March 8, 2015. The exhibition presents designer gowns and exquisite jewelry from the 1930s and 1940s. The exhibition focuses on the iconic style of famous stars of the period, including Gloria Swanson, Anna May Wong, Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Mae West, and Joan Crawford. Hollywood style in this era was a blend of on- and off-screen fashion and accessories, including dramatic costumes created for the screen by famous designers such as Adrian, Travis Banton and Chanel, and dazzling jewelry from makers of the era like Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin and Paul Flato. Avenue of the Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., Boston, MA 02115; 617.267.9300; www.mfa.org.
NEW YORK
THE CORNING MUSEUM features “René Lalique: Enchanted by Glass” through January 4, 2015. This exhibition brings together glass, jewelry, production molds, and design drawings by René Lalique (French, 1860-1945), dating from about 1893 to Lalique’s death in 1945. As a successful jeweler Lalique experimented with glass in his designs, which eventually led to a career in which he fully embraced the material. The aesthetic choices of his designs informed the styles of Art Nouveau and Art Deco in France, and the objects he created have become iconic reflections of these periods. One Museum Way, Corning, NY 14830; 800.7332.6845; www.cmog.org.
THE MUSEUM AT THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY presents “Exposed: A History of Lingerie” through November 15. The exhibit examines intimate apparel from the mid-eighteenth century to the present, featuring over sixty objects from its permanent collection. Each of the pieces helps to illustrate key developments in fashion, such as changes in silhouette, shifting ideals of propriety and technological advancements. These selections include some of the most delicate, luxurious and immaculately crafted objects in the institution’s holdings. Seventh Avenue at 27th St., New York, NY 10001; 212.217.4558; www.fitnyc.edu/3662.asp.
THE MUSEUM OF ARTS AND DESIGN illustrates the narrative orchestrated by African-American bead artist Joyce Scott in “Maryland to Murano: Neckpieces and Sculptures by Joyce J. Scott.” Showing through March 22, 2015, the exhibit features the personal presentation of society’s many poignant issues embedded in Scott’s work, such as poverty, rape, love, sex, racial stereotypes, social disturbances, as well as tales from American and African history. 2 Columbus Circle, New York, NY 10019; 212.299.7777; www.madmuseum.org.
OHIO
THE KENT STATE UNIVERSITY MUSEUM features several clothing related exhibitions this year, including “Entangled: Fiber To Felt To Fashion” through February 15, 2015. The exhibit’s focus is the use of felt in garments, using both seamless and sewn felt techniques, and showcasing both sheer elegance and sturdy construction. Also at the museum is “The Great War: Women And Fashion In A World At War” showing through July 5, 2015. This exhibition explores how the roles for women changed during and in the immediate aftermath of World War I through a careful look at how they dressed. Also showing is “Arthur Koby Jewelry: The Creative Eye”, ending October 5. Architect/sculptor/jeweler: all describe the work of Arthur Koby whom Vogue described as “one of the masters of collage.” East Main Street and South Lincoln St., Kent, OH 44242; 330.672.3450; www.kent.edu/museum.
OREGON
THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY CRAFT hosts “Fashioning Cascadia” through October 11. This exhibit shows the work of regional clothiers including those involved in all aspects of design and production and focuses on new production models based on locally-sourced and produced supply chains. It also honors the Fibershed ideology laid out by Rebecca Burgess that emphasizes regional and slow fiber systems similar to those appearing in the culinary field. Also explored is the craft of use, or the circulation, modification and social meaning that becomes embedded in garments. For example, how the use of heirloom narrative and re-skilling is a way of examining individual behavior, and prevailing attitudes towards clothing as a disposable commodity. 724 NW Davis St., Portland, OR 97209; 503.223.2654; mocc.pnca.edu.
PENNSYLVANIA
THE PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART presents “Gerlan Jeans Loves Patrick Kelly” as a corollary exhibition to the museum’s Patrick Kelly exhibit. Showing through November 30, the exhibit follows the fashion of Gerlan Marcel. Launched in 2009 by the New York–based designer and graphic artist (born 1976), Gerlan Jeans reinterprets Kelly’s signature bows, buttons and other bold embellishments to create clothes for men and women “who have a sense of fearlessness in the way they dress.” Similar to Kelly’s fashions, which were inspired by the designer’s Mississippi childhood, Gerlan Jeans reflects Marcel’s midwestern upbringing, in particular her teenage experiences with American mall culture and admiration for 1980s and 1990s jeans brands such as Esprit and Benetton. 26th Street and Benjamin Franklin Pkwy., Philadelphia, PA 19130; 215.763.8100;
WASHINGTON, D.C.
JEWELERSWERK GALERIE features the work of Mari Ishikawa through October 10, in an exhibition entitled “Memory.” Making use of found objects and alternative materials, Ishikawa’s brooches are suggestive of primordial organic forms and celestial bodies. Often, the artist will use fibers, such as metal wire, to create see-through structures which allow light to cast intricate shadows, bringing the piece of jewelry from an inanimate object to a diaphanous, living, breathing entity. 3319 Cady’s Alley, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20007; 202.337.3319; www.jewelerswerk.com.
BELGIUM
MODEMUSEUM PROVINCE OF ANTWERP hosts “MoMu Award: Madeleine Coisne” through October 26. Every year, MoMu gives the MoMu Award to a graduate student of the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp. The award is given on the basis of the creative vision and technical merit of the graduation collection, which is on view for four months at the MoMu Gallery. Coisne creates diaphanous clothing in a collection of monumental, Japanese looking shapes with rich colors and different textiles varying from smooth and silky to more raggedy swatches. She integrates men’s ties into her abstract appliqué motives on the 2D panels that hold her silhouettes together. Nationalestraat 28, Antwerp 2000, Belgium; 32.3.470.2770; www.momu.be.
CANADA
THE MONTREAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS presents “Remarkable Contemporary Jewellery” through November 30. The exhibition showcases the work of thirty Quebec and international artists whose creations testify to the richness of this practice. The diversity of jewelry presented illustrates new approaches and techniques. Although some of the artists use traditional materials like gold, silver and precious stones and explore age-old surface treatment, forming and stamping techniques, their artistry remains an act of invention, the expression of a constantly evolving tradition. The necklace fashioned by Christine Larochelle features silver elements that have been laminated and acid-etched. Drawing inspiration from African techniques, Matthieu Cheminée stamped the surface of his bracelet with a pattern of his own design. The exhibition was curated by the specialist Noël Guyomarc’h in collaboration with Diane Charbonneau, the Museum’s Curator of Modern and Contemporary Decorative Arts. Shown are Le fou du roi necklace by Lynn Légaré, Gummi necklace by Yael Krakowski, and Reconfiguring the Ordinary necklace by Yong Joo Kim. 1380 Sherbrooke Street West, Montréal, QC H3G 1J5, Canada; 514.285.2000; www.mbam.qc.ca/en.
FRANCE
MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS presents “Fashion Space: Dries Van Noten” through November 2. Van Noten’s collections and those of the museum will more closely examine the fashion designer’s work. As the first step in this process, nineteenth-century prints selected from the museum’s archives by Van Noten have been replicated and applied to garments of his collection for men for his spring/summer 2014. 107 Rue de Rivoli, Paris 75001, France; 33.0.1.4455.5750; www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/english-439.
GERMANY
THE SCHMUCK MUSEUM IN PFORZHEIM features “Jewellery by Winfried Kruger” through October 19. This goldsmith and jewelry designer worked as an instructor at the Technical College of Pforzheim’s Goldsmithing School until 2010 and was awarded the Baden-Württemberg State Prize for Arts and Crafts in 1992. Kruger’s jewelry maintains a singular aesthetic of well-defined contours, bold shapes and surface texture, as well as liberal use of contrast whatever the medium, be it silver, enamel or paper. Jahnstrasse 42, Pforzheim d-75173, Germany; 49.0.7231.39.21.26; www.schmuckmuseum.de.
GREAT BRITAIN
THE AMERICAN MUSEUM IN BRITAIN presents “KAFFE 2014: The Colourful World of Kaffe Fassett” through November 2. World-renowned knitwear and textile designer Kaffe Fassett returns to the American Museum in Britain in 2014 to celebrate his fifty years working as an artist and colorist. Born in San Francisco in 1937 and raised in the creative community of Big Sur, California, Fassett has a long association with the American Museum, first exhibiting there in 1994. The exhibition features works spanning Fassett’s creative life. Visitors to the exhibition will discover zones, each showcasing a variety of materials by color, from knitted shawls to gorgeous coats inspired by Shakespearean heroines, and cushions decorated with his detailed needlepoint designs. Claverton Manor, Bath, BA2 7BD, United Kingdom; 0.1225.460503; www. americanmuseum.org.
THE FASHION MUSEUM IN BATH features “David Sassoon: A Life in Fashion–Bellville Sassoon Lorcan Mullany” through January 1, 2015. In 2011 British fashion designer David Sassoon donated his archive of hundreds of fashion drawings from the late 1950s to the 2000s to the Fashion Museum in Bath. Three years later in 2014 this special display at the museum celebrates both the gift of the archive to the museum, and the three extraordinary designers—Belinda Belville, David Sassoon and Lorcan Mullany—who together have run this uniquely British fashion house for over fifty years. Twenty-five evening dresses have been assembled by Sassoon, borrowed especially for the display at the Fashion Museum in Bath. Bath Assembly Rooms, Bennett St., Bath, BA1 2QH, United Kingdom; 44.0.1225.477789; www.museumofcostume.co.uk.
THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM presents “Wedding Dresses 1775–2014” through March 15, 2015. Trace the history of the wedding dress and discover some unusual and magnificent examples from the last two hundred years. This exhibition highlights exceptional craftsmanship and brings together couture and designer-made wedding garments.
ITALY
THE HORNE MUSEUM in Florence features “Jewelry Artist: Tradition in Modernity” through October 15. This exhibition, curated by Ornella Casazza and Laura Felici, and promoted and organized by the Observatory for Arts and Crafts (Osservatorio dei Mestieri d’Arte/OMA), is dedicated to Tuscan and foreign painters and sculptors who practice the jewelry arts and, in particular, are turning their attention to sculpture intended to be worn as jewelry. It takes place in two locations in Florence and is accompanied by a catalogue. Via dè Benci, 6, Florence 50122, Italy; 39.055.244661; www.museohorne.it.
SOUTH KOREA
THE WORLD JEWELLERY MUSEUM hosts “A Little Clay on the Skin: New Ceramic Jewellery,” closing November 9. This exhibit examines contemporary jewelry which incorporates clay as its primary material. While traditional jewelry is linked with precious metal craftwork of the applied arts, since the 1970s contemporary jewelry has become a field of experimentation in new arenas between art and design. The works of the thirteen international artists (French, Swiss, Finnish, Dutch, Swedish, and Taiwanese) offer a revitalized and personal vision. 75-3 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul, South Korea; 822.730.1610; www.wjmuseum.com.
SPAIN
THE WORLD JEWELLERY MUSEUM hosts “A Little Clay on the Skin: New Ceramic Jewellery,” closing November 9. This exhibit examines contemporary jewelry which incorporates clay as its primary material. While traditional jewelry is linked with precious metal craftwork of the applied arts, since the 1970s contemporary jewelry has become a field of experimentation in new arenas between art and design. The works of the thirteen international artists (French, Swiss, Finnish, Dutch, Swedish, and Taiwanese) offer a revitalized and personal vision. 75-3 Hwa-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul, South Korea; 822.730.1610; www.wjmuseum.com.
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